Introducing the Nikonos!

I was lucky enough to track down and acquire a new camera for my quiver. I've been wanting to get a fresh perspective taking photos of surfing and waves, and there is not a better tool to do this while still shooting 35mm. Here are a few shots of the first roll, and I am super impressed how they turned out given the conditions. Hopefully, they will get better and better!

Nikonos V
Produced by Nikon until 1984
This thing is a tank!

Sunset at the Point
Nikonos V

 

Off The Lip
Nikonos V

Fall Is Here

Fall has began its advance on the coast, slowly marching through town with its cold aura. Mornings and evenings are crisp, and the daylight is rapidly diminishing. Soon there will be little time to play outside, and thoughts will wander to the warmth of summer days. My last days of summer were spent down in Costa Rica, getting some wild rides both on land and on the waves. Poseidon was grumpy that morning, causing a 7.6 earthquake to shake the jungle violently for 35 seconds. Time slowed, and the earth jumped to and fro, what seemed like two to three feet. But despite the madness, little was damaged. There were few landslides, mostly due to the land being so dry. Although it is rainy season, little rain has fallen. 

 Quad
Nikon FM2
Kodak 400
 

 Sr. Crabby
Nikon FM2
Kodak 400
 

Tidepool Reflecting
Nikon FM2
Kodak 400


Counting the days until the fall swells!

View from Lighthouse Field
Nikon FM2
Kodak 400

 

Think You Are Hardcore

Check out this guy...

 

...makes me feel like a sally when the water drops into the 50's here.

Offshore

July's Haps

Summer means many different things to many people, and to me, it means trying to stay busy doing things since there's been no swell. That being said, I did recover my log, which was stolen last winter. I had been training for, and have completed the 12 mile Jay Moriarity Paddleboard race (prone), and have been in the process of shaping my first surfboard. Until then, I just dream of waves like the one taken of one of the great mornings last winter at the hook...

Ripping day at the Hook
Nikon FM
Fuji 400

Below are some pictures of board number 1, and hopefully many more will follow. I have literally been dreaming about shaping surfboards since I was a little kid, land-locked in Arizona, playing Endless Summer on loop, hands itching to shave some foam into wave shred sleds.

Here it is... A summertime inspired, mush cruising, squat diamond tailed, stick, meant for pure pleasure. It has a low entry rocker flat mid section, and low tail rocker, meant for turning the waves energy into slip sliding fun (in theory).

5'8"x21.5"x2.5"

And now, to glass this beast...

Summer Doldrums

Summer has launched is full fledged attack on Santa Cruz, and, as you can tell, I have been playing out side quite a bit and not posting too much. Weekends have been filled with mountain bike rides, paddle board training, bbq's and too little surfing and art. I hope to turn this around and get some new work up shortly. 

Until then, here is a kindly stolen, amazing video of some underwater action by Jon Frank. A brief view of the unseen dynamic between surfer and wave. 

Summer Day Dreaming

With the spring equinox in the past, the days are steadily growing longer. I cant wait for the warmth of summer the days, sun kissed babes, and loggin' waves. Its my favorite time of year!






This band is playing in town soon. I might just have to go see them!