Thursday, January 26, 2012

Hey Wave, Let's Party!

After getting completely skunked at lunch the past few days, dawn patrol this morning offered some redemption. A big NW came charging down the coast, kissing the coast with some tasty waves. So big in fact, that I decided to switch from the normal dawn patrol spot, and jump in at the hook instead. It was the right call. The Hook has a vast kelp bed, which helps to smooth the chop, creating a groomed wall over a fairly shallow reef. The rain and swells over the past few weeks have stolen a lot of sand from random beaches, and have been depositing it all along the point. Sharp contours are softened and random holes filled. It is a face melting playground. As luck would have it, I was in the perfect spot and dropped into a glistening, sun-kissed gem, which lined up all the way to privates. One of the longest and most picture perfect rides I have had in a long time. 

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

A Big Swell and A Road Less Traveled

With no destination in mind, known, or sought after, the future is an uncertain place. It is a road less traveled, where the adventure is the dream, and the destination is overrated. Its a constant search for beauty, for meaning, all spawned from curiosity and an overbearing need to reaffirm values that are hard to explain to others. What is it that drives me? That excites me? That gets me up and out of bed each day. Is it mixed in with my coffee? Or is something calling? Is it the wave on the horizon, or the possibilities that are on the horizon of the day. Like this wave, its a terrible, unique, powerful and beautiful thing wrapped all in one. 

A Manhattan Swell
Courtesy of Andrew Hill
Canon 7D
January 6th

Or is it just my curiosity towards the world...

The Future Belongs to the Curious from Skillshare on Vimeo.