Todays wave comes in prose form, from an insanely talented and creative surfer. Some people criticize him for taking the road less traveled in his professional career as a surfer, but I feel the path Dane Reynolds is following is one made of love. Its easy to see if you ask me.
"surfing is my passion in life. i always think about how lucky we are that there's even an ocean, and its not too hot or too turbulent and it's not made of acid that burns our skin off. and how lucky is it that the land tapers into the ocean in just the right way so that when lumps of energy approach from a thousand miles away they gently rise up and crash at just the perfect speed so that we can wave our little arms and match their speed and hang at the crest weightless for just a second before sliding down the face. free to ride it in any way you please. and there's not just one of them. there's tons of them. they keep coming. all different sizes shapes and speeds. everyday they're different. endless joy."
Go to his blog here to read more about why he left the world tour.