Thursday, May 19, 2011

Day 13 - The South Swell

From the script of Big Wednesday:

"The sea of the past was like a beautiful and unscrupulous woman--strong men, with childlike hearts were faithful to her, were content to live by her grace--to die by her will"

Joseph Conrad
An Outcast of the Islands

"In the old days I remember a wind that would blow down through the canyons before dawn. It was a hot wind and carried with it the smell of warm places. It blew strongest before dawn across the point. My friends and I would sleep in our cars. And the smell of the offshore wind often wake us and each day we knew that this would be a special day, a special morning. We were young then--and we didn't care. It was summer and the south swell, the summer swell, the summer swell was strong and the water was warm."

This is one of my favorite movies, of ALL TIME! Laugh if you want, but I have these goofy quotes running through my head at all times. Especially this morning when I woke up, made some coffee and ran down to the end of my street to check out the waves. The sound of the crashing surf, is my siren. It pulls me from a deep slumber, egging me to throw my wetsuit on, wax my board, and jump in the water.

Here is a video from my phone showing some of the local duders absolutely shredding the Rivermouth. Hopefully my coffee/surf stoke induced quivering didn't make the footage too shaky.

 Video from Phone
Standing on Lifeguard Tower 1
River Mouth S.C.

No comments:

Post a Comment