Waves for brains...

If you would have been on my street Friday night, you'd have gotten a good laugh out of me. I took the handplane out for its maiden voyage in the Rivermouth shore break. The sun was looming, barely above the western horizon. It's golden fingers clawing over the boardwalk, struggling to light the nooks and crannies of Santa Cruz. This display of a flawless sunset made for quite a bodysurfing experience. I pulled into my first left-hander, and with the help of the handplane maneuvered into the perfect little spot, deep in the bellows of the curl. The image burned my eyeballs, slightly melting my brain at the same time. I have never seen in person that many colors inside of a wave. It was an impressionist painting, enveloping my body as though a child hugs their teddy bear. A liquid, space time continuum. Time stopped, the image danced about, and in an instant, the golden curtain closed, dousing color from the water.


I got pummeled. Up was down, down was up, and sideways was a 4th dimension that I can't even explain. Eventually, I popped to the surface in a foam-ball sand concoction, grinning like a fool, and frothing at the mouth to get another gem. I am hooked. And if you saw me walking back to my house after that session, you would have said so as well.

Pleasure Point
Fuji 400
Diana Mini 

Rasta Boards
Fuji 400
Diana Mini 

Big Sur
Fuji 400
Diana Mini